Backstage

Here is the backstage for the construction of a denture (it is actually a crown) realism of undisputed, highly effective in making short films, live events, cosplay or just for a change’ their look depending on the mode.

L’ need is available in all stores for dentists or dental, possibly also at a good price online.

Materials needed:

• An impression tray top of the desired size
• Alginate per imprint, slow.
  
• Gypsum powder.
• Disposable latex gloves.
• Dough or put.
• Vaseline.
• Resin for provisional.
• Pre-vulcanized liquid latex
• Bototalco
• Silicone Impression (it only takes a small amount)
  
• any water-based acrylic colors
  

The first step is to take an impression of the teeth. This is done using the special tray and a fair mixture of water and alginate (I use Neocolloid, which is also excellent for making the cast of the face or any part of the body).

Once the slurry has been stabilized and hardened (by 3 to 5 minutes) you can clean the mouth and fill with a mixture of water and gypsum. Council to do this in two stages: the first with a very liquid mixture that is stratified throughout the footprint, It need operation during which tap the table, is to remove small air bubbles present, that in order to enable the plaster to make every detail present on the mold.

The second, every few minutes from the first, a little more dense, as a filler.

After a period ranging from 20 minutes 2 hours, depending on the plaster you have chosen, Your positive is ready.

If you have a latex liquid, I recommend using it to coat the stamp with a light film, Dab with talcum powder: This will make it much easier to loose the prosthesis as well as give a slight 'game’ made to the crown, that make it more comfortable and durable.

On the positive thus created and covered by a layer of latex, it is now possible to model your new teeth with the plasticine or clay.

After work cover everything with a thin layer of vaseline, that, as well as allow the posting of the counter that we will achieve, is also useful to give a good polish to the whole tooth.

The prototype so grossed must be placed in the freezer for a couple of hours, so that the plasticine or clay to take a good consistency.

After such an interval may be made to make the mold with key (that is, with a detail, such as a small pin located on the palate) allowing for the repositioning of the same counter.

To accomplish the latter you can use different types of materials, but I have experimentally verified that the best is the silicone impression (Flexitime EasyPutty), that breaks away from the plaster once catalyzed, is flexible and allows slight undercuts, separating the resin and is reusable !

Wait until the counter that you cast or molded on the model is hard, and disconnect it from your work again. Make sure that the work done so far has managed well and remove the dough from the positive (and if present in trace, also from the negative).

Now comes the most delicate moment, the realization of the real prosthesis molding.

Given the nature of the used substances near, I suggest you work in a well ventilated place and using latex gloves.

Liquid and powder (I used a medium color Duralay clear) be blended in appropriate quantities (about 1:1) and then poured into the mold, closed immediately with good positioning with the key you created earlier. Obviously a soft mold will make it much easier being removed.

After a variable time between half an hour and 2 hours depending on the resin used can be removed to cut the crown, remove small imperfections, lucidarla, and colored end.

In some of the attached pictures you can see how he left a large area of coverage on the gums. This is not always necessary, rather, often the most realistic prosthesis cover only the teeth. A skilful use of color and a couple of coats of clear gloss will give your life to finally sighed work.

Plaster cast	Model in clay	Controstampo in silicone
Prosthetics printed	Finished prosthesis	Prosthetics colored

Today I'll show how to achieve simplicity with a small pair of devil horns in the pre-vulcanized liquid latex.
Necessary:

• Clay modeling (I use the Pongo, cheaper and readily available)
• Gypsum powder (if we do not want a particularly precise and richly detailed plaster and it is also by those who sell items for construction will be fine)
• Vaseline (available from hardware)
• Pre-vulcanized liquid latex (in this case I chose cheap material available in a shop of fine arts)
• A container that can accommodate our model the size of just over (achievable in Caroncini or simply by cutting a plastic bottle)

Once identified by eye the size of our model (a horn in this case) we start the modeling phase with Pongo, placed on a flat base isolated from the work table with a sheet of paper, trying to give a rounded shape and concave at the base.

Obtained the desired shape, and added some detail to increase the realism (For example, vertical stripes on the bone or the horn in a simple orange peel on the skin) you must place the model in a suitable container (which may be a small cardboard box made to measure or, as in my case, the bottom of a plastic bottle), up at least a few centimeters more than the model, and distribute on the surface in a delicate (preferably with a brush) the vaseline will work to release.

After that you can make the plaster and fill the container that, until it completely covers our model (that, course will remain open at the base (face which touches the bottom of the box or bottle) and not be undercut, permetterene for rapid and effective removal.

Once you have the mold (the negative) will be sufficient:

• apply a thin layer of vaseline
• stratification 3/4 levels of pre-vulcanized liquid latex, buffered with talcum powder from time to time, when dry

to create many replicas of our model.

To get a good result the Board to pay small amounts at a time of latex into the mold, mold to be rotated so that the liquid latex adheres well to the boundary. To speed up the drying time may exercise useful to have a hair dryer, to be used at low speeds and at a distance of at least 10/15 inches from the mold.

The outer rim is the most delicate part of the work: more will be thin more 'invisible’ will be the application of the prosthesis. To achieve this it is usually sufficient to reduce a layer of latex outer part, remaining inner layers with subsequent.

E’ now reached the carnival and we have not yet thought about what mask to wear for a nice evening with friends in the disco ? Or more simply.. after years of serious denial, and we decided to return children to celebrate for one evening with his face painted ? So why not try to pull off our artistic side and make a facepainting for a night when no one is who seems…

Making a facepaint is something within reach of anyone with a bit’ patience, material and an hour of time to spare.

The material:

• a white makeup pencil
• a black makeup pencil
• colors for the face-based water that you can find stores that sell items for the carnival, or supermarkets
• a sponge triangular lattice, which is sometimes also provided with the colors.
• accessories to enrich the trick that you have chosen, as false eyelashes, colored wigs and glitter.

After cleaning the face, preferably with a makeup remover, we can start to play with the white pencil drawing that we have chosen. The white pencil will be easier to remove than black and not make a mess in the case of corrections.

If you want a little manual or simply to take the first, you can print and cut out one of the designs you find below, and play along the edges.

It is therefore necessary that the picture occupies the entire face, but rather that it maintains the proportions.

Once we are happy with what we have done, using the black pencil, with a sudden strong and determined, and disclose it outlines the basic design of the mask.

Then, wetting the sponge first and passing it on waffles color, Then inside of the lines marked with a pencil, go to color patterned our design.

All done ? Tigrotto and gattino.. we are ready to quit !

CLICK HERE FOR MORE IDEAS !!!

The question I most often is made by the observer (sometimes a bit’ naively) while performing a bodypaint is' What colors are?’ – 'But then come off with water ?’

Having reassured the public and shaping, maybe with a hint of irony ( 'Sure, with some’ acetone is it all away ') Switch off what is often there, with some dismay of the viewer to know that just a little’ soap and water can undermine all the work within minutes of our day.

But we've never really wondered what we in the colors we use, and if we can reproduce ? In fact, the costs of the colors continuously increasing (wafers of AQUACOLOR 4mg in traditional colors, I found yesterday by a dealer authorized to 5,50 Euro l'una!) is pushing more people to walk the path of experimentation.

For better or for worse.

While using food coloring (that plus the easiest to find – be sure not thinking of coloring the skin by using acrylic, true ?!) is the relative security to avoid allergic reactions and skin toxicity (according to the logic of 'if we can eat, surely we can also spread it on ') you still need to pay particular attention that the product is also easy to remove, and do not leave undesirable spots on the skin.

If you want to go a little’ deeper into what, and accurately analyze the contents of a color to BodyPaint, here is the list of ingredients (in order of use):

• Distilled water (in the case of course is based liquid and not waffle)
• Cetearyl Alcohol – Cetearyl alcohol (emollient / emulsifier / stabilizing emulsions / opacizzante / viscosizzante)
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate – also known as SLS (schiumogeno)
• Octyldodecanol – Octildodecanolo (emollient and solvent)
• Cetyl Alcohol – Cetyl Alcohol (emollient / emulsifier / opacizzante / viscosizzante)
• Stearic Acid – Stearic Acid (emulsion / stabilizing emulsions)
• Propylene Glycol – Propylene glycol (umettante / solvent)
• Triethanolamina – Trietanolamina (pH balancing)
• Glycerin – Glycerol (denaturante / umettante / solvent)
• Sodium Laury Sulfate
• Lenath-40
• Sodium Borate – Borace (buffering agent)
• Dimethicone – (antischiuma / emollient)
• Sodium Chloride – Sodium Chloride (viscosizzante)
• Talcum – Talc (absorbent)
• Methylparaben – Metilparaben (preservative)
• Perfume – Perfume

and, depending on the color of one or more of the following colors:

• Titanium Dioxide – Titanium Dioxide (White) Cl 77891
• Iron Oxides and Mica- Metal oxides and mica Cl77491 Cl77499
• yellow5 Cl19140:1
• Ultramarines Cl7707
• Ferric Farrocyanide Cl77510
• Cl Red7 15850
• Red38 Cl12085
• Yellow 6 Cl15985:1
• Red40 Cl16035
• Pigment Yellow 1 Cl11680
  
• Barium Sulfate Cl77120

Although not all the-shelf components, are quite common, especially in liquid soaps and shampoos.

Objective? Amaze!

Tired of these crisis talk, Italy, this year 's all the more- has decided to focus on products that have given great prestige to the brand 'Made in Italy’ Worldwide, and among them, the wine is one of the most acclaimed winners.
So, At the Vinitaly 2009, (Verona 2-6 April) mi sono prestato a colorare 4 models of gold for the presentation of a bottle of wine definitely ace. Dopo aver valutato diverse proposte grafiche, has decided to focus on a simple, elegant, that reflected the design of the product.

And so it was: to a unique bottle in the genre, made of square section and is sold with precious stones and gold chain around his neck, there have also been four beautiful girls dressed in a shiny gold color and glittering (produced for the occasion) which has enhanced their already natural beauty, ponendole, inside and outside the booth, the center of attention, even the most distracted visitor.